Oregon Orchards, Wine, and Waterfalls on a Mother-Daughter Adventure
Story and photos by Heidi Siefkas



When a daughter living in Hawaii and a mother living in Boston finally meet up after years of travel restrictions, an Oregon tour through the countryside becomes an ideal Plan C.


Oregon travel story

Pressing rewind to a time when most, like my mother and I, would plan travels and schedule time off, which would mean our wanderlust dreams would come true. Late 2019, we booked a mother-daughter adventure to Croatia with a tour group for more than 10 days in mid-summer 2020. However, world events had other plans.

At first, I thought Covid would blow over by the end of the summer of 2020. So, we postponed our Plan A to Croatia in hopes of a Plan B at another time in 2020 or even 2021. Pressing fast forward to 2022, we grew weary of the delays and lingering international travel stress. So, we put on our thinking caps and pivoted to a Plan C. Where could we escape domestically in early fall of 2022 that would be new for us both and easy to get to given that our homes were 5,000 miles apart?

Meeting in the Middle — Columbia River Gorge

After a five-hour flight from my home in Maui and a night in a Portland hotel, I met my mother at the airport mid-day after her two-leg journey from Boston. She started in the wee hours of the morning Eastern time, so I took the lead in navigating the airport, baggage claim, and the rental car as my mom was beyond punch-drunk from the time change and travel.

Armed with a phone charger, iPhone navigator, and two caffeinated beverages, we were off to America's first scenic byway, Route 30 along the Columbia River Gorge. Although my mother talked on the way to our lunch stop, I'm not even sure she remembers the first day or perhaps the first day and a half in and around the Columbia River Gorge. It's a good thing that our incessant photo documenting kept records for us in times of brain fog and jet lag.

Upon arriving at the hotel, we opted for a night in with a quick takeout order for dinner followed by our usual rivalry game of cribbage and a round of crazy eights. Both always competitive, I took no mercy in either game. I skunked her. However, after much debate, we decided that in future games after travel days, there must be a handicap given to the one who has the worst jet lag.

Touring the Colombia River Gorge

Latourell falls OregonWith a good night's sleep and still on East Coast Time, my mom was up before first light. By 6:00 a.m. she was showered, dressed, hair done, make-up on and already with a cup of coffee from the breakfast buffet. Since I'm accustomed to getting up with the real roosters in Maui, I didn't complain. We would make good use of the day, hitting the road after breakfast.

Within the first half-hour, we knew our choice of the scenic Infinity Loop along the Columbia River Gorge and Mount Hood was spot on. Although far from where we both grew up, western Wisconsin near the Mississippi River, we immediately witnessed the similarities between the Upper Mississippi and the Columbia River Gorge. Instead of limestone bluffs like in the Midwest, the gorge is basalt. However, the surrounding apple orchards, berry patches, and quaint farmland brought back childhood memories.

The northern portion of the Infinity Loop took us along Historic Route 30, which was built in 1915. It is a windy two-lane road, albeit narrow at times, that follows the Columbia River from Troutdale to Hood River, passing various waterfalls, beautiful vistas, and hiking trails.

Although we knew the must-see waterfall, Multnomah, was the most popular and the largest in Oregon, we gambled and stopped at a lesser-known falls to start our day with a short hike, where we saw only a handful of people. Latourell Falls reminded us that bigger isn't always better. It also rekindled our faith in the kindness of people you meet on the trail. There is some unwritten rule when hiking; greet or smile at the others because we already have something in common: we admire Mother Nature.

By mid-day, we winded our way to Multnomah Falls, named for one of the Native American tribes in the area. The parking lot was full on Route 30 with many visitors walking from the additional parking lot off of Highway 84. Within ten minutes of intense parking lot scouting, we scored a spot, but we surely were glad that we decided to visit during the week of the shoulder season. We later learned that nearly two million people a year visit this waterfall. Albeit crowded, the Multnomah Falls double cascades framed by the trees and the bridge made it well worth the short hike.

We drove into Cascade Locks and headed towards Thunder Island for a view of the famous Bridge of the Gods from the movie Wild with Reese Witherspoon. With the clouds starting to form and wind gusting, we both wanted to eat before we got hangry. A short drive by to Route 30 and one Google search later, we happened upon Thunder Island Brewing for a tasting flight of local brews and a play on the traditional pub fare; instead of spicy chicken wings, we selected buffalo cauliflower bites. If I didn't know the savory fried bites were cauliflower, I would have sworn they were chicken. It just goes to show you can fry just about anything and cover it with a good sauce (alioli, peanut butter, or pico de gallo) for a crowd-pleasing culinary dish.

multnomah falls oregon

A Farm-fresh Bounty in Hood River Valley

We exchanged our hiking boots and waterfall chaser hats for a tastier adventure along Highway 35 called the Fruit Loop. South of Hood River, there is a plethora of apple and pear orchards as well as vineyards. With such a bounty, there are farmstands, you-pick opportunities, cideries, and wineries around each corner. To get a bird's eye view of the valley, we first drove up to Panorama Point for a view to the South of Mount Hood and countless orchards and to the North Mount Adams on the Washington side of the Columbia River. These two mountains would serve as bookends for our day winding in and out of delectable stops.

Although Mount Hood is by far the more popular of the mountains, both my mother and I got turned around quite a bit and mistook Mount Adams for Mount Hood. No, it wasn't the local Pinot Noir and Riesling that was hindering our internal compass. This happened well before we started tasting wines. As another lesson learned, landmarks are lovely for navigation, but having GPS is priceless.

lavender farm vineyard

Since we started on the road fairly early, we began the Fruit Loop not with a stop at a winery, but at the Packer Orchards and Bakery. Outside you could pick from already harvested local pears, apples, and peaches or go and pick your own. We gravitated indoors following our noses to the back for the fresh baked goods. The selection ranged from fruit pies to scones and savory focaccia and sourdough breads. We opted for one multi-berry scone washed down with fresh apple cider and an apple handpie for the evening card game.

We scouted out a table in the sun along the boundary of the orchard. The scone was light, full of berries, and surprisingly moist. A special road stop bonus was a mountain view, of Washington's Mount Adams.

After quick stops at the Hood River Lavender Farm and The Old Trunk Antique Store, we agreed it was wine time. So next stop was the Gorge White House. This location had it all: u-pick orchard and flower garden, a food truck with sandwiches and woodfired pizzas, plus tastings of local wines, ciders, and craft beers. We quickly found out that the Gorge White House was no secret as the parking lot and tables filled up quickly after our arrival. It was a good strategy to divide and conquer: one in the wine line and one at the table.

The wine tasting flight gave us a selection of whites, reds, and a rosé. By far our favorites were completely opposite tasting profiles. The Riesling was crisp with flavors from the local pear and apple orchards, whereas the red blend was robust with hints of berries and a smooth finish. The quandary, what to pair with a wine tasting flight spanning the palate? We opted for a pizza, but not any pizza, a pear, caramelized onion, and cheddar cheese pizza.

cathedral ridge

We regretted not ordering the pizza before the wine. We needed to wait 45 minutes; thus, a game of Cribbage ensued. This reminded me of Winston Churchill's quote about champagne, which also could be said about pizza, "In success you deserve it and in defeat, you need it." Whether in victory or defeat, we couldn't quite finish the meal; so, we took the leftovers en route to our second winery.

We set out for award-winning Cathedral Ridge Vineyard, featuring some bold reds including Syrah and Cabernet. We split a tasting flight, opting to get a bottle of Riesling for us to go with the pizza and cards at the hotel and a bottle of Cabernet for a gift. We both commented that our limit was two tastings. There is only so much swirling and sniffing you can do unless there is something else: live music, walking tour, or cooking class.

Hiking Around Mount Hood and Timberline Lodge

On our final full day on the Infinity Loop, we completed the Southern route, which included the Mount Hood National Forest. We left the hotel armed with a good breakfast and plenty of caffeine. Within about 45 minutes, we were surrounded by old growth forests, primarily evergreens. We arrived at the Mirror Lake trail head early, but the parking lot was already half-full. If we were lucky, after walking a moderate two-mile trail, we would witness Mount Hood reflected in the lake.

Along the peaceful hike, we crossed many bridges with freshwater streams and moss-covered rocks. On our way out to the lake, we encountered some hikers that were on their way back to the parking lot, but they were equipped with more gear than just for a day-hike. Most had camped at Mirror Lake. Curious, I asked a few of them if they saw Mount Hood that morning. Several shared that it was going in and out of the clouds. Would we see Mount Hood or would it be as elusive as other mountains like Mount McKinley (aka Denali) in Alaska?

lavender farm vineyard

When we arrived at the lake, we followed the signs to take the loop around. With so many tall trees, I admired the placid lake, but no sign of Mount Hood. We continued until we reached a few campers that were still breaking down camp from the night before. Not wanting to disrupt their tasks, I stuck to the trail, which had changed from dirt trail to wood planks near the boggy lake's edge. Before heading through swamp-like grass as tall as I am, I looked to the right and there it was, Mount Hood as clear as day. There was a small, muddy area past the campers' site that we could pull off and take it all in. While savoring the epic spot, we met other hikers from France and Japan. That vista was worth traveling halfway around the globe.

The return route was much more well-traveled with the late risers as well as their dogs. There was a line of cars that were waiting for us to leave our cherished spot. With more and more people exploring the outdoors since Covid, it pays to be the early bird even in off-season.

Our next stop was to drive up to the Timberline Lodge for lunch and more views of Wy'east (the Native American name for Mount Hood). The lodge is a lesson in history, with breathtaking views, and is a culinary treat. We opted for the lodge's pub, Ram's Head Bar, which is circular space around a large fireplace with lengthy windows for views of the summit, hiking trails (in the summer), and ski runs (in the winter).

As the temperature had dropped quite a bit from our hike with the change in elevation, we opted for cups of lentil soup, a baked brie, and a cauliflower garbanzo salad. The waitress suggested a pear martini and a huckleberry cocktail for us to try. The combination of the view, cocktails, and delicious food was a home run.

After lunch, we spent some time walking around the National Historic Landmark learning about the dedication of the building by FDR in 1937, how it was built by the WPA (Works Progress Administration) and CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps), and that it had two Saint Bernard Mascots: Heidi and Bruno. As a child, I had a Saint Bernard named Caesar who pulled me in a dogsled in the winter and in a pony cart in the summer. Unfortunately for us, both Heidi and Bruno were off that day.

To remember our Plan C trip, my mom and I each purchased a silver charm of Mount Hood to wear. This has been a tradition since my mother's childhood with a silver charm bracelet. Both of us have since evolved to necklaces, as the bracelets get caught on just about everything and snag clothing. Currently, I'm on my third necklace of silver charms from every important life milestone or adventure. In essence, our charm necklaces are our totem poles, telling our stories of who we are, where we have been, and our interests.

mount hood

A Reminder to Live Life Well

On our last morning, it was 6:30 am when I received an unexpected call. It was my doctor's office in South Florida where I frequented during my recovery from a broken neck in 2010. I had maintained contact, but this was a weird time to call. I picked up and it was his receptionist, Tiffany. She said, "Heidi, I know you loved Dr. R. Last week, he passed." Not knowing what to say, but immediately choked up, I commented, "I'm so sorry. Could you share any details?" Tiffany shared, "He had problems with his pancreas. His service was last week. Today, I came across your book in his office. I wanted to let you know." With tears streaming down my face, I replied, "Yes, I loved Dr. R. Thank you for calling me. It means a lot."

I wasn't hungry or even wanting my coffee fix. The man that helped me totally recover from my accident was gone. He was the captain of my ship when I couldn't be at the helm. It instantly forced me back to the time when I was the most vulnerable. I expressed to my mom, "Getting old sucks. The people that helped me with strength in the past aren't going to be here or aren't here now." Getting up from the table to hug me, she said, "You are strong now. They gave you the strength so that you can live fully. You can now help others with your strength."

We went back to the hotel room, but I didn't want to just twiddle my thumbs around the big elephant in the room nor waste time watching unimportant news updates. I wanted to go and honor Dr. R and our history together by witnessing something beautiful. Both of us were all packed up. So we checked out and set out to the nearest overlook, which was the same one we started the trip with called Chanticleer Point.

This was the first time seeing the Columbia Gorge at almost sunrise. I relished the vista. Mother Nature's masterpiece was a reminder to look up and 1) be in the moment and 2) find the upside. I certainly felt grateful for my second chance on life as well as for the support of many of my helpers, including my parents, Dr. R, and my friends.

After the overlook, we hit the road to return to the airport. I didn't cry, but the mood of the whole return trip home to Portland and then to Maui was somber; waves of sadness hit me unexpectedly. Even before the news, I decided that on my return flight to Hawaii, I would reread my first book, When All Balls Drop, as this trip was not only a Plan C, but also a celebration of life, marking thirteen more years of life. It had been nearly five years since I read it. One chapter would make me cry, while another made me laugh. In the future, I will not let five years pass between readings.


Heidi SiefkasHeidi Siefkas is an author, TEDx speaker, and adventurer. Her books include Cubicle to Cuba, With New Eyes, and When All Balls Drop. Currently, Heidi is writing her fourth book, Look Up-Inspirational Stories from Around the Globe. You can learn more about contributing to the Look Up Book, Heidi’s adventures, and previous books at www.heidisiefkas.com.







Related Features:
Biking Through the Bounty of Oregon - Tim Leffel
Going with the Flow on the Pacific Coast Highway - Heidi Siefkas
The Wild Beaches of the Oregon Coast: How Walrus Teeth Called Me Home - Julia Hubbel
Living in the Moment Along the Kumano Kodo of Japan - Heidi Siefkas


See other USA travel stories from the archives


Read this article online at: https://perceptivetravel.com/issues/1222/oregon.html

Copyright © Perceptive Travel 2022. All rights reserved.


Also in this issue:



Books from the Author:

Buy Cubicle to Cuba: Desk Job to Dream Job at your local bookstore, or get it online here:
Amazon
Amazon UK


Buy When All Balls Drop: The Upside of Losing Everything at your local bookstore, or get it online here:
Amazon
Amazon UK


Buy With New Eyes: The Power of Perspective at your local bookstore, or get it online here:
Amazon





Sign Up