Searching for Music in Rural Rwanda — Page 2
Story by Ian Brennan, photos by Marilena Delli



We were lucky enough to experience a 19-year-old barefoot, freestyle rapper, Rosine Nyiranshimiyimana, who is grittier than most any gangsta’. And right by her side stood Emmanuel Hatungimana, the mohawk-cut traditional music master, along with a husband/wife team that traded in eerie harmonies that can make Black Sabbath sound a bit trite. Also keeping it in the family were a mother and son, Ruth Nyiramfumukoye and Patrick Manishimine who struck dueling Umudulis.

Icyembe

A featured instrument is the 11-string Inanga, which has a resemblance to a Boogie board and when turned upright stands taller than some of its Abatwa players. Many of the tribe have now been relegated to government-designated villages, having been herded in from eons-old wandering ways. In their village, alcoholism and depression hang thick through the air, conjuring the fractured spirit of many pre-casino era American Indian reservations. Like elsewhere in the world, corporations and rulers yearn for nomadic people to stay in their place and not interfere with “progress.”

The one song questioning, “Why Did We Stop Growing Tall?” seemed to speak quite poignantly for itself.

Music From Way Beyond the Grid

Due to their first two albums having attracted the admiration of one the world’s most famous “roots” groups, a London charity offered the Rwandan band, The Good Ones, a gourmet organic dinner in London prepared by a celebrity chef. The organizers were convinced that detail would be the clincher to get the group to agree to perform for free at an annual benefit fundraiser for Africa.

The Good Ones

What the promoters seemed to have missed more than anything was that the band were all itinerant farmers from Africa who themselves were in need and had no means— monetary or visa-wise— to hop on a long-distance, two-day flight at will. Plus, everything the musicians ate was already organic. So much so, that they were confused by what the term “organic” could mean, as they had never considered food existing that was otherwise.

Adrien of The Good Ones

We recorded The Good Ones’ third album at their leader Adrien’s hillside farm— the one he was born on. He hid out in the trees nearby to survive the genocide.

The members of The Good Ones manage without electricity and running water, luxuries that have not reached their regions yet and even if they had physically, might still remain out of their reach financially.

Yet, looking down into his wide and askew valley— one that is folded and hidden within other valleys beyond the paved roads— the lush and multi-hued forest is dizzying.

Most artists in the West wane with age due to excess— drugs, ego, money, the objectification of others. But artists from less mechanized lands usually decline due to the opposite: lack. Of nutrition, healthcare, and adequate shelter.

Adrien’s is a voice not deliberately rasped through blunts and Tequila shots, but life itself. As we parted, he handed me a sack of Iron beans from his farm. Seeing the longing in his children’s eyes as they watched this transaction, my urge was to refuse. But it was clear that he was seeking nourishment other than food and that acceptance of his generosity was non-negotiable.

Rwandan musician

About the Musicians

The Good Ones have released two critically acclaimed albums since 2010 and consequently toured the UK and Germany. Their third album will be released in 2019 and features special guests such as Nels Cline (Wilco), Corin Tucker (Sleater-Kinney), and Tunde Adebimpe (TV on the Radio).

Abatwa [the Pygmy] released their debut album on the award-winning Glitterbeat label last year and were among the rare few globally to be invited to perform at Peter Gabriel’s 36th annual WOMAD Festival in the summer of 2018.

Ian Brennan is a Grammy-winning music producer (Zomba Prison Project, Tinariwen, Tanzania Albinism Collective, Malawi Mouse Boys) who specializes in championing voices from underheard regions and persecuted populations. He has authored four books including his latest, How Music Dies (or Lives): Field-recording and the battle for democracy in the artsHe is also a violence prevention expert and has lectured around the world about non-violent crisis revolution since 1993 at such prestigious institutions as the Betty Ford Center, Bellevue Hospital (NYC), UC Berkeley, and the National Accademia of Science (Rome).

All photos by Marilena Delli.

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Related Features:
A Modern Story from Old Africa - James Michael Dorsey
Tracking the Hadzabe: Little is Changed in one of Africa's Last Remaining Bush Tribes - Shelley Seale
Biking Across Borders in the Balkans - Tim Leffel
Into the Depths of the Sahara in Algeria - J. Jaye Gold


See other Africa travel stories from the archives


Read this article online at: Searching for Music in Rural Rwanda https://perceptivetravel.com/issues/0818/rwanda.html

Copyright (C) Perceptive Travel 2018. All rights reserved.


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