Going with the Flow on the Pacific Coast Highway
Story and photos by Heidi Siefkas



A former tour guide and rental business owner tries to just let things happen on a camper van trip up the PCH from Los Angeles to Portland in America.


Pacific coast van travel story

Before hitting the hay, well before the stroke of midnight on New Year's Eve, I decided my post-pandemic New Year's Resolution was to be monumental. The typical goals of losing five pounds, living greener, and minimizing possessions would not do. With over a decade of working as an international tour guide as well as a lifetime of being an innate leader and Type A planner, I chose to resolve big.

My two-pronged resolution is to be more flexible, which may sound easy, but let me explain its double entendre.

Not only am I testing myself to let go of the reins, allow more things to unfold as they may, and go with the flow, but I'm also pushing my body physically. As I'm now in my second half of my forties, my muscles aren't as flexible as they once were. I can remember doing the splits without stretching when I was a high school pom-pom girl. I can't do that anymore. However, as I intend to continue to head for outdoorsy, physical adventures, I need to add stretching and yoga into my lifestyle to prevent injuries and recover faster. However, I'll admit that holding a pigeon pose is uncomfortable, but it is far easier for this planner than taking my chances and getting hurt.

A Long Road Trip to Test My Resolution

After almost a year and a half without leaving the Hawaiian Islands, an opportunity presented itself to test my resolution as well as settle my ever-increasing island fever: an invitation to a wedding in Southern California's wine country. Since neither my other half nor I had driven the Pacific Coast Highway, we decided to piggyback the wedding with a road trip from Los Angeles to Portland, nearly a thousand miles as the crow flies.

Pacific coastal road

Having unforgettable adventures in Iceland and Route 66 in vans, we opted for a campervan instead of a rental car. In the back of my mind, I thought this route would assist me in my resolution. The timeline was flexible because we were already home at the end of every day.

roadtripping in california Our great idea to extend the wedding weekend into a road trip caught on like wildfire. Shortly, there were multiple couples that were also invited to the wedding that were going to do the same thing. One couple who is like family to us asked, "Do you two want to caravan together up the PCH?"

I'm not going to lie; I was on the fence. Group travel, regardless of if you are great friends, family, or other, makes everything more complicated (restaurant reservations, bathroom stops, campground availability, personalities, shopping, finances, etc.). However, if I dared to accomplish going with the flow, this would definitely test it.

Plan A: we agreed to rent two camper vans out of Los Angeles for two weeks with return of the vehicles in Portland. There was no itinerary, only a start date at LAX and an end date at PDX. The pace would be slow, approximately 100 miles a day, to take advantage of the beauty, sights, and just being.

Other than reading a California guidebook from the local public library, skimming a couple of blog posts from the camper van rental company, and asking local friends about must-sees, I didn't do weeks of travel research. I left Maui rather under-prepared. However, I figured by putting all four of our heads or smartphones together we could conquer anything.

Caravan Meet-Up: Jigsaw and Painted Pony

After the boring "hurry up and wait stories" about TSA, the trans-Pacific flight, baggage claim, rideshare to van rental lot, and exiting Los Angeles traffic in a wildly painted campervan, nicknamed Jigsaw, it all started with the first rendezvous with our fellow van campers. Our van, which we named Jigsaw, was an attention grabber. The entire van was painted with a landscape theme, but broken into puzzle pieces. When we started moving, everywhere we stopped it got comments.

camper van travel along the Pacific coast

We were running late for the rehearsal dinner because of a couple of necessary stops en route from the airport: one was the bride's last-minute request, and the other was for burritos to keep the hangry campers at bay. We pulled into the parking garage of the local casino, spotting Painted Pony and our friends. They were already dressed for the night's events and settled in, but we weren't. Regardless, all of us wanted to check out the others' van. Painted Pony was named because of its bright collage. There was no image of a pony, but since we were in Santa Ynez Valley for the wedding, it was given a western, ranch-style nickname. We found a corner spot, away from heavily trafficked areas, to park, which would be home for the night. Both vans would stick out like sore thumbs, but the casino, like Walmart knows van campers will be spending money.

I'll spare you the details of the untraditional rehearsal dinner (aka multiple wine tastings) and getting a surprisingly good night's sleep in Jigsaw. Likewise, I'll skip over the beautiful and intimate wedding ceremony the following day, the delicious pizza food truck caterer, or the cowboy bar line dancing post-party. All that needs to be known is that the happy couple provided a great springboard for us to do this epic road trip. And the number one thing that all need to pack when traveling or attending a wedding is patience.

We didn't let a little post-wedding grogginess and sore dancing feet get in the way of putting some road behind us towards the ocean the next day, away from the drier hills and to Highway 1. By following what looked good and felt right, we stumbled upon quaint Morro Bay. In its harbor, we spotted resident sea otters as well as seals. We grabbed a couple of adult beverages to walk out to the beach for a surf competition, only to be more entertained by the assertive and hungry squirrel population.

Back on the road, we didn't last long. We lucked out close to San Simeon to witness the hundreds if not thousands of elephant seals sunning themselves on the beach.

elephant seals on the Pacific coast

Old School Tricks Save the Day

The other couple came prepared with walkie-talkies for communication. But they weren't the only ones with old school hacks. Although it took up a lot of real estate in my backpack, I brought an old-school Rand McNally Road Map Atlas. Both ended up being godsends. Unbeknownst to us, most of the PCH doesn't have cell service or internet. Was this a sign? Along the way, even in Big Sur and portions of Monterrey, I was forced to go with the flow because the online tools we typically depend upon when booking reservations, communicating, and navigating did not work. This particularly shocked us because we were so close to Silicon Valley and other California tech Meccas. The very tools created a short drive away could not be used on the scenic PCH.

On day one, we also found out the limitations of the walkie-talkies. Trailing behind Painted Pony, we spotted a hiking trail. They drove around the next corner. Without line of sight, the walkie-talkie didn't work. We couldn't notify them of our detour. We knew that the next proposed activity was sunset and perhaps a night's sleep at a campground or a fire road just ahead. So, we decided to stretch our legs with a short, scenic hike. The other couple stayed on course. They assumed that we would turn up.

Trinidad Beach California

We did. Eventually, we met them on the lower portion of a fire road for happy hour with an unforgettable ocean view of the sunset and the highway. While we were hiking, the other couple scoped the road further ahead. It turned out to be a rather hazardous road, only suitable for 4WD vehicles. It started to get dark, better find a place to call home for the night.

Although we were traveling in the winter, which is off-season for the route, we didn't factor in that the beginning of our trip was over a holiday weekend. All the state campgrounds were full. Where were we to sleep? It would be dangerous to drive the curvy road much farther at night. There were no casinos, Walmart parking lots, nor public land nearby where camping is allowed. Pulling over on the side of the road was the only option. We located a large pullout with room for our two vans, then parked side-by-side to facilitate cooking our first of many meals together.

Painted Pony Bistro

Previously on day one, we made a provisioning run. Unlike many camping adventures, we didn't stock up on dehydrated foods to be light weight. Instead, we rolled out of Walmart with an overflowing cart. Maybe our eyes were bigger than our stomachs. However, since we had propane stoves, solar powered coolers, and a dish sink, we could create quality, tasty dishes. However, repacking that cart full of goodies between the two vans was somewhat a game of Tetris. And, since there was no rhyme or reason on how the provisions were divvied up, at each picnic or camping spot, it truly was a "Who moved my cheese?" moment. Where are the tortillas? Who has the eggs? Where's the wine?

One of the lessons of this road trip is that camp food can really be as good if not better than at home. You don't have to eat peanut butter and jelly all week. In fact, our first night on the side of the road, the other couple prepared brisket tacos that were on par if not better than any taco truck in California; thus, the inside joke started about the Painted Pony Bistro. Since the other couple and van took the lead on most meals, they were the chefs. We were the sous-chefs and dishwashers. With bellies full and no campfire, it was early to bed. We pulled the curtains over the windows and tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags for a chilly night.

Fortunately, that was the only night that we needed to sleep roadside. All other nights, we were able to locate private campgrounds and/or friends in the area invited us to stay on their land. However, the farther we drove the colder the temperatures. Most mornings the windshield had frost; thus, we were very appreciative of the campfires both to take off the chill in the morning as well as to entertain and warm us at night.

California Highlights, Fights, and Plan B

All of us were first timers on the PCH. We were shocked and awed by each corner, bay, beach, or pier. We all commented that we could envision taking three months to do the whole highway in-depth. It was Mother Nature's masterpieces that were the highlights. The landscape of Big Sur, abundant marine life along Highway 1, and the Redwoods in Northern California are worthy of repeating as pilgrimage.

redwoods california travel story

After about three days on the road, we hit San Francisco. By this time, all of us wanted different things: see Hawaii friends at Fisherman's Wharf, a campsite that allows fires, a hike, and a soak in a hot spring. With all these options, I reverted to my go-to, which is to take the reins. A detour into the city would be three hours; were the friends of the other couple even available? We didn't have a reservation for a place to stay that evening; where were we going to sleep? All the longer hikes and campgrounds would be outside San Francisco. The only hot springs that we could find was over two-and-a-half-hour drive away.

We did have two vans; thus, we could split up and meet-up later on the road. However, I didn't know I would have a mutiny in our van. My other half and I ruined the better part of a walk at the Golden Gate Bridge with a fight, which had no winner. The heated argument was about time. For him, a vacation means no timeline. The planner in me was struggling with this definition of vacation.

Accepting What the Road Will Give Us

Luckily, the other couple stepped in and found a campground only a half-hour away close to Point Reyes. Thank goodness for four heads and internet connectivity near San Francisco. We arrived at a lovely campground with firepits and hot showers. On the drive, we found out the friends in the city already had plans. So, that proposed detour was just a teacher trying to test me. The hot springs were still to our North, but were closed on the very day that we would be passing through. Another reminder that flexibility is key to happy living and happy traveling.

After another lovely Painted Pony Bistro meal with macaroni cheese, roasted potatoes, and more brisket, we planned to sit around the fire. It had been several nights of camping without a fire because of fire bans in Central California. However, the night that we were in a campground that allowed fires, it started to rain. We were forced to turn in early, seeking dry shelter inside our vans.

The following morning, the campground was damp and cold, which hurried up the coffee, breakfast, and morning constitutional. All of us desperately needed a good soak in a hot spring. Could there be another option other than the one that would be closed?

Along the ride that day into the Redwoods, a couple of Plan Bs came to fruition. The other couple wanted to go skiing. We had plans to see three sets of friends in Northern California, Southern Oregon, and outside of Portland. We could split at the California border. About the same time that we made this decision, we also stopped for gas at a convenient combo stop: taqueria, convenience store, and gas station. Inside I decided to ask about hot springs. The gas station attendant didn't know of any. The taqueria worker did not either even when I asked in Spanish. However, two female diners did. They said, "Go to Vichy Springs. It's fifteen minutes away."

Probably the best 24 hours of the caravanning was in this area amongst the Redwoods at a private site with campfires and hot showers. We had our Vichy Springs stop in the morning, evening margaritas, and more good meals including biscuits and gravy finished off with s'mores. And no rain.

All Four Seasons in a Week on the Oregon Coast

Jigsaw and Painted Pony parted ways at Eureka, California. Their GPS was set to Bend. Ours was set to the Oregon border and its Banana Belt Coast. Little did we know that Oregon would welcome us with beautiful, warm, and sunny weather for the first two days, exploring from Brookings to Port Orford with a picture-perfect stop every five minutes.

oregon coast travel story

That stretch of the PCH almost gave us whiplash with so many rock formations, dense trees, and dramatic coastline. In Brookings, we caved and got a hotel room. It was mostly for a good night's sleep, but also the added benefits of a heated pool and hot tub. At this point we had learned our lesson: van camping in chilly weather is better with hot tubs, showers, and/or springs.

The remainder of our road trip along the Oregon Coast brought traditional winter weather: rain and wind with a flurry of snow. We passed on riding ATVs on the Oregon's Coastal Dunes, opting for a walk with family friends from childhood and warming up with clam chowder and fish and chips. For the final stretch, we made good time as the detours were shorter and wetter. Although we were both anticipating our visit to Canon Beach, by the time we reached the iconic Portland vacation spot, we had seen so many cascading rock formations along the coast that are equally mesmerizing such as Natural Bridge Cove and powerful Cape Perpetua. Oregon showed its contrasts. The state greeted us with romance, sunsets, and warm temperatures in the Banana Belt. After leaving that little slice of Oregon heaven, we saw the climate's true colors, wind, rain, and cold temperatures. The last 80 miles of what turned out to be a 1,400-mile trip with the added detours and squirrel chases was a good reality check as to what winter in the Pacific Northwest is really like.

Our friends also opted for a hotel in their Plan B. They did get an ideal day of skiing in, but also two days of hard driving to and from the Bend area. When we returned Jigsaw, we parked next to Painted Pony. They had returned the van the day previously to get back to Hawaii for work and other celebrations.

Upon returning to Maui, we were greeted with the strong Tradewinds, but they were warm, unlike the winds on the other side of the Pacific. We would put our puffy coats, hats, gloves, and raingear in the closet for our next winter adventure.

Am I more flexible now than before the caravan up the Pacific Coast Highway? I'd say sleeping in a van didn't improve my physical flexibility nor his, albeit we both had to perform some "van yoga." That is, yoga-like techniques used while dressing inside a van while it's raining outside while moving around your van travel partner. At home, I'm back into the swing of things adding more stretching and yoga to every day. However, the van life and travel in general remind us all to let loose of the reins and go with the flow. Like any strong resolution, it's a challenge that takes regular effort to achieve.


Heidi SiefkasHeidi Siefkas is an author, TEDx speaker, and adventurer. Her books include Cubicle to Cuba, With New Eyes, and When All Balls Drop. You can learn more about Heidi's adventures and books at www.heidisiefkas.com.







Related Features:
Shifting Gears to Share Van Life Adventures in Maui - Heidi Siefkas
A Lucky Dog Road Trip from Mexico to Maryland - Camille Cusumano
A Vintage Roadtrip: Butterflies, Blues and VW Buses - Lydia Carey
The Wild Beaches of the Oregon Coast: How Walrus Teeth Called Me Home - Julia Hubbel


See other USA travel stories from the archives


Read this article online at: https://perceptivetravel.com/issues/0522/pacific.html

Copyright © Perceptive Travel 2022. All rights reserved.


Also in this issue:



Books from the Author:

Buy Cubicle to Cuba: Desk Job to Dream Job at your local bookstore, or get it online here:
Amazon
Amazon UK


Buy When All Balls Drop: The Upside of Losing Everything at your local bookstore, or get it online here:
Amazon
Amazon UK


Buy With New Eyes: The Power of Perspective at your local bookstore, or get it online here:
Amazon





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